I planned a bit ahead and scheduled up for a private cooking class with Nguyet at Baby Mustard Restaurant. We've used the reviews on TripAdvisor extensively this trip, rather than what our guidebook says--things change quickly, and the cooking schools that the book mentioned seemed like larger classes. We wanted a more intimate experience where we could ask questions and really have undivided attention from our teacher. This is exactly what we got!
The class started at the Hoi An market, see duckling photo above. The rest of the market time was spent listening to Nguyet explain in detail various herbs and vegetables, which eggs and garlic were local (smaller is better!), which limes had better flavor (the yellower ones, not the pretty green ones), why Vietnamese do not like American chicken (too soft in texture & farmed in factories where the animals cannot walk freely). This was a slow stroll among the vendors in what I typically think of as a hectic experience: Nguyet took her time and made the time there informative and enjoyable. We also learned that the vendors outside the market had local produce.
Her restaurant is in Tan An village, where there are large community vegetable and herb gardens. We got a tour and tasted many herbs.
Seaweed used for making the earth nutrient-rich
Some things were prepared for us for class, like chopped garlic, shallot, and green onion. Everything else we did ourselves (I guess in some Hoi An cooking classes you just watch the instructor? Weird).
We chose three dishes to make: banana flower salad, grilled lemongrass chicken, and clay pot pork.
I'm glad we chose the banana flower salad; I've seen them occasionally in Springfield, Ma Vietnamese groceries, but I had no idea how to cut or use them. You need to remove the outer layers as they are too bitter. Only use the cream colored inside, and slice VERY thinly, stopping when you get to the small dots inside.
The shaved banana flower soaking in water and a little salt to reduce bitterness.
Skipping ahead to the grilled lemongrass chicken: we need to find these grilling baskets and a banana leaf tree, when we get back home.
The prepped grill tray with banana leaf, chicken parts, and lemongrass leaves
Open air kitchen
Nguyen shows me how to fan the charcoal grill. I think the smallness of the grill and the fanning of the charcoal help impart the smoky taste to the chicken.
Finished and on the table! Everything tasted divine.
As we were leaving, we saw a lizard on herbs used for steaming fish, growing outside the restaurant.
Back in the Old Town, mossy roof and lanterns
Typical old alleyway
Posh sunset cocktails at the Mango Room. Not mentioned online or in our book, somehow we followed our noses to what seemed to be the best cocktails in town, and a spectacular view. Ginger-infused vodka with crushed lemongrass stalk.
Tailoring alleyway: old houses with new Juki industrial sewing machines
We ended up back at our alleyway Cao Lau and Bia Hoi restaurant. Let's face it, the Old Town is mighty touristy and wears thin quickly. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its buildings, and rightly so, but the storefronts were jammed with intense commercialism and the streets were littered with tour groups. I'm glad we stayed out of town and rode around to outlying areas.
