I had thoroughly researched our next dinner and was really looking forward to it. A couple of blogs (plus a tiny article in Travel + Leisure???) mentioned it as the best bun thit nuoung. There were two different addresses on the blogs but no Google Maps listing. Nothing on TripAdvisor. Suggested way of getting there was to tell your taxi driver, but we had bicycles and were determined to get there on our own. I asked a couple of people, including the woman who rented us bikes, and she confirmed: it's over the river and then you turn left. There was no hesitation from the Vietnamese people we asked about this place: everyone knows about it. Rightly so.
One of my favorite Vietnamese dishes in the US is this bun thit nuong, grilled pork over rice vermicelli with herbs and fish sauce dressing. I use this dish to judge how good a restaurant the place is. It is a staple of Viet menus in the US, but it isn't everywhere in Vietnam. This version is the best I've had. Grilled pork with sesame seeds, cucumbers, lettuce, basil, mint, other herbs like baby mustard, banana flower, over rice vermicelli. Mix your own level of heat into the fish sauce dressing using the red chili paste on the left. Add additional chilies or garlic as needed. We did not need.
Analysis of the elements for future at-home re-creation
We ate as the sun was going down, in a slightly charcoal-smoky room. Small wall fans try to circulate the air from becoming too thick. You can see the massive metal chimney in the back corner here. A large group of women (10-12) have just left, and one of them asked me via an inquisitive thumbs-up whether I liked the food. I speak just enough Vietnamese to order food and this lady probably had the same amount of English. But we shared a love of this place using non-verbal communication. At the end of the meal as we were paying, I looked up how to say it was delicious so that I could tell the two waitstaff--they had a lot of difficulty understanding me and my horrible attempt at saying "ngon luhm" but by the third attempt they understood and smiled broadly.
Down an alley after the initial directions of "over the river and turn left". It is well-marked from the road. A couple of taxi drivers are parked on the main road, so if you are too full to bike back there is another option.
Ok, I think I've covered how much we liked this meal.
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